How to dye traps with Speed Dip (a step by step guide)

How to dye traps with Speed Dip (a step by step guide)

Andy Stoe's Speed dip. Is it good, is it bad, what color should I choose? All of these questions and more seem to be of great concern when new trappers or even just new users prepare to use speed dip for the first time. First let me break down the basics of what speed dip is, to put you at ease and then we will continue to the how to.

What is speed dip anyway? the short answer... it's paint. The long answer, it is a petroleum based paint with one of two different iron oxides (rust) mixed in for color and asphalt which is why you need to use gasoline or some other petroleum based fuel as a thinning agent. Without turning this into a chemistry lesson yes it does protect the trap from corrosion better than a standard spray paint as it has water resistant characteristics amongst other things.

So now that we have covered that it is simply paint what color should you pick? The answer, what ever color you want your trap to be as both accomplish the same task of camouflaging the trap and providing a level of corrosion resistance.

What traps should I coat with speed dip? WATER TRAPS! Now the previous statement is important, it is not to say that you cannot use speed dip with land traps (particularly coyote) however you will have to wait an extremely long time for the smells to dissipate (at least one year and probably more) otherwise you will be frustrated with a large percentage of dug up traps. I personally like speed dip for any water trap that has a coil spring. Whether that be a coil spring trap or a "stop loss" style trap, either way I think that this is the best solution for increasing the longevity of these springs and lower the maintenance cost an time in the future. 

So now that we have covered some of the basics lets get into the guts of this post how to.

Required tools:

- Safety glasses ("you don't want to shoot your eye out kid")

- Rubber Gloves (besides not wanting exposure to chemicals this stuff takes forever to get off your skin.)

- 1 qt. of Andy Stoe's Speed Dip

- 1 gallon of gasoline

- 1 old container for mixing Dip (make sure your traps will fit)

- traps you can cover a couple dozen with 1 qt.

- 1 stir stick

- degreaser (for new traps)

- 1 disposable paint brush (optional)

Step 1: Prepare your traps

As with all painting you will want to have a good clean base to start with, if you are dipping old traps make sure they are clean and free of any debris and old wax. For new traps spray and rinse or boil in a solution of degreaser and water (be aware keep speed dip and gasoline away from fire as both are highly combustible... there I put the warning label on if you burn yourself now it's on you.)  

Tip: I like to put a twig in the jaws of foothold traps so that the inside of the jaws get a coat as well.

Step 2: Bundle traps and prepare hangers

Now you will want to put your traps in small enough bundles that you can fit them in you container, as well has create a handle so you can submerge the whole chain. ( For this I use rebar wire or as I like to call it trappers duct tape, because we use it for everything.) At this point you will also want to have a place set up to hang the traps to dry.

Step 3: Mix speed dip

At this point you are ready to mix your speed dip as you have everything else set up and ready to go. Now would be the time to put on your PPE (glasses, and gloves) now mix 1 quart of Speed Dip to 1 gallon of gasoline and stir vigorously. you want to mix the two components very well as this will ensure better color and a smoother finish.

Step 4: Dip and Hang

This is it, now grab a bundle of traps, completely submerge in the solution, and remove immediately. Now shake the excess paint off, as this will help to prevent drips and globs. (if there are drips and globs I would not worry too much as I do not think this going to be of particular interest to what ever critter your are targeting.)

Now you can hang your traps to dry the longer the better as it will allow for a full cure however it should be dry to the touch within 48 hrs.

Now for larger traps or when you start to get to the bottom of your container use your brush to cover the spots you may have missed. 

What you should end up with is a nice even coat of brown or black dye covering the entire trap. I hope this clears some things up for you, if you are looking for information on using log wood dye and wax for land traps and water traps we will be posting a separate how to article for that. Until next time, thanks for reading.